WELL here we are in June, Chelsea has come and gone and we are now looking forward to Hampton Court and Tatton Park. Although we have had the odd shower, we could still do with some proper rain as the grass is drying out and in our part of Hertfordshire the soil is still very dry. The gardens are continuing to grow apace this month and delphiums and peonies are starting to look glorious. Here’s a few jobs to think about:

1. Pull up your dead daffodil, tulip and bluebell foliage now that they have died down enough.
2. Now is a good time to plant up your hanging baskets and containers if you haven’t already done so. Remember that they will need watering twice a day and feeding once a fortnight. If you can it’s a good idea to use special hanging basket compost as it tends to have water retaining granules to reduce the need for watering.
3. Now that the birds have flown their nests now is a good time to get your hedges cut and trimmed. We always try to resist the temptation to do it earlier so we don’t disturb them.
4. It’s also a good time of year to trim your box hedging into shape. Traditionally, people say Derby Day is the time to do it. Make sure you choose a cloudy day so that the tender shoots don’t get scorched by the sun.
5. Prune back Forsythia, lilacs and Choisyas now that they have finished flowering. You can also trim back Kerria, and towards the end of the month ceanothus and Spirea arguta.
6. Keep an eye out for pests.
7. As blooms start to fade towards the end of the month keep dead heading (roses, Scabious etc.) to prolong flowering.
8. Cut back oriental poppies once they have finished flowering, they will produce new green growth which will look more attractive than dying leaves. Also cut Geranium phaem and Geranium sylvaticum right back; they will re-shoot in no time and you will get some more flowers if you are lucky. You can do the same with Brunneras.
9. Continue to sow out your veg including tomatoes, runner beans, sweetcorn and courgettes. If grown in pots remember to keep them well watered especially runner beans. Thin out earlier sowings so they have plenty of room to develop.
10. Some early potatoes should be ready for lifting this month. Wait until the first flowers start to open and then do a test dig to see if they are ready.
11. Support larger herbaceous perennials such as paeonies, so that they don’t flop when in rains. I use hawthorn or hazel twigs as they look more natural than plastic or bamboo canes.
12. Feed tomatoes and bedding plants once a week with tomato feed to keep them happy.
13. It’s a good time of year to take softwood cuttings on shrubs such as Hydrangea, Deutzia, Philadelphus and Spirea. (see propagation tips).
14. Keep mowing your lawn regularly, at least 5-7 days (or less), if you want it to look neat and you can cut a bit lower now. Remember to get the sprinkler out if it starts to dry out.
15. Keep on top of the weeds.
16. If you do have gaps in your border fill them with colourful bedding plants– think geraniums, dianthus and petunias for sun and busy lizzies and begonias for shade.

Marvellous, marvellous May. It’s our favourite month in the garden. Plants are growing so quickly that you can almost see them and hear them. Add to that the special fresh ‘May smell’ in the air, a mixture of heady scents from lilacs, wildflowers and grass clippings and you get something truly spectacular. Top of our list of jobs to do this month is to go and see a bluebell wood; a real natural wonder of the world. We say this every year but it has to be done. If you are not sure where your nearest one is ask around. Favourites near us are Pyror’s Wood, near Stevenage, Chilham in Kent and Norsey Wood in South Essex.

Other jobs we should be thinking about; 

1. Plant the last of your potatoes if you haven’t already done so and start to earth up when the growth gets to about 15cm. This will stop greening.
2. Continue to keep an eye out for pests. Check for the red lily beetles, aphids and slugs and dispose of them. Viburnum beetle can be a pain on Viburnum tinus, V.opulus and V.lantana. As can sawfly on Soloman’s Seal. Nip them in the bud before they spread with a good systemic insecticide.
3. With any luck the frost threat is over so start to think about planting out some summer bedding from the end of the month. All the garden centres are awash with fabulous bedding for your pots and hanging baskets. Now is the time to plug any gaps that have appeared in your borders.
4. Keep an eye on the weather forecasts. In the unlikely event of late frosts, be prepared to cover your tender plants with a double layer of horticultural fleece. The weather does seem a bit changeable and the forecast (for our part of Hertfordshire at least) for the first part of May is a bit disappointing, cooler temperatures again until the middle of the month; thought it was a bit good to be true.
5. Pull up or hoe off weeds. Don’t forget on a cool day when the soil is wet some weeds can re-root once hoed off so either remember to put them straight onto the compost heap or hoe on a sunny dry day so that the weeds desiccate and quickly die.
6. You can sow runner beans, squashes, pumpkins and courgettes directly into prepared soil from the end of May.
7. Start mowing your lawn weekly now.
8. Dead head tulips and daffodils and trim back Pulmonarias and Doronicums to encourage new verdant growth once the flowers have gone over. Don’t be tempted to cut down your daffs just yet. You should wait 6 weeks after flowering to make sure all the goodness goes back into the bulb to ensure a good flower display next year.
9. Brussels sprouts can be transplanted from their seed bed into their final positions and spacings at the end of May.
10. Continue to keep your pots and hanging baskets well watered to ensure that they don’t dry out.
11. Prune out any frost affected shoots of evergreen shrubs.
12. Prune back camellias after flowering. They do respond well to quite severe pruning if required.
13. Take softwood cutting of deciduous shrubs such as Forsythia, Hydrangea, Fuchsia, Spiraea and Philadelphus. (See propagation section for advice on how to do it).
14. Towards the end of the month think about introducing certain houseplants into the garden such as Christmas cacti, potted azaleas and orchids. All will enjoy a summer holiday but take them out gradually and don’t put them into direct sunlight straight away or they will scorch. In fact, the Victorians used to plant up flower beds for the summer using rubber plants, palms and mother-in-laws tongue.
15. Support your perennials now so that they don’t flop later on.

Remember to take time to sit and enjoy your garden. Get a glass of wine or a gin and tonic and really take in the beauty of the plants around you. After all that’s why we do it!

WELL spring has finally arrived. The daffodils are looking glorious, the leaves are starting to appear on the hawthorns and willows, herbaceous perennials are starting to push through in the borders and the grass is starting to shake off its depressing winter yellow colour. This is a wonderful, invigorating time of year for a gardener and now that the clocks have changed we also get an extra hour in the garden!  Lots to do this month;

 1.      Plant evergreen trees and shrubs now that the soil is starting to warm up. It’s a good time to plant other flowering plants such as roses, climbers and herbaceous perennials.

2.      If you haven’t pruned your roses by now, make sure you finish this month. It’s also a good idea to feed them with a granular rose fertiliser.

3.      Hard prune the forsythia after flowering.

4.      Start hoeing to keep weeds down between your plants. Take care not to cut the tops off hostas, lilies and other plants that have tender shoots.

5.      Keep a look out for pests, especially slugs and snails if the weather turns wet and take speedy action. If you don’t want to use sprays then pick off as many as you can. Try using the organic slug pellet based on ferric phosphate. Keep an eye out for the dreaded lily beetle as the lilies start to push through. We are hoping that the cold weather has reduced their numbers.

6.      Continue sowing selected vegetables outside such as carrots, radishes, beetroot, cabbages, Brussels sprouts and lettuce. Brussels and cabbages do better if they are sown in a seed bed first then transplanted into their final positions in May / June.

7.      Plant second early potatoes (such as Maris Peer, International Kidney & Charlotte) from early to mid April (ready July/August) and main crop towards the end of the month (ready September/October). First early potatoes are usually planted late March but it doesn’t matter if they run into April

8.      Sow pumpkins, squashes and tomatoes inside with protection. When it has warmed up in May and frost risk has gone then they can be planted outside.

9.      Don’t be tempted to fill in the gaps in your borders just yet; some plants are still coming through.

10.  Start your spring lawn treatments to keep them in tiptop condition. Continue to aerate, scarify, feed and weed. There are a number of all-in-one weed and feed granules available at your local DIY store or garden centre and it is worth using them.

11.  It is also a good time to start turfing or seeding new lawns.

12.  If you have winter bedding such as pansies continue to deadhead them to extend their flowering season, and keep containers and hanging baskets well watered. They should start to look their best from this month onwards.

13.  Take basal root cuttings from things like delphiniums, dahlias, phlox and chrysanthemums. These are created from the little tiny shoots coming from the base of last years old stems. Try to remove from as near as possible to the main root and before they are 2 or 3 inches tall and root in nice sandy, gritty compost.

14.  Take soft wood cuttings from fuchsias and geraniums.

15.  Hoe in slow release fertiliser between your plants to get them going.

16.  If you want dramatic leaves on some shrubs and are happy not to get the  flowers you can cut back hard on catalpas, acer negundo and pawlonias

17.  Carefully remove dead and damaged fronds from ferns. Take care not to damage the new, unfurling fronds in the crown of the plant as they are very brittle.

18.  Be patient with perennials that may look as though they have been killed by the frost such as salvias and verbenas. There is a  good chance that they may re-shoot from below ground level.

19.  Start watering your house plants regularly. Pop them in the bath and give them a blast with the shower head to get rid of dust and cobwebs. You will find that this will invigorate them and help them to photosynthesise properly.

20.  It’s a good time to start planting summer flowering bulbs such as gladiolis, fresias, ixias, sparaxis and lilies.

What a month its been, snow, snow and more snow. Although, a covering of snow does make the landscape look beautiful and  romantic it isn’t great for the garden and certainly isn’t great for gardeners. But at least the days are starting to draw out slowly and there are signs of life in the borders as the spring bulbs start to push through. Some early snowdrops are already out and some daffodils are well on their way. Here’s a few jobs to do if you can get out.

 1. Shake any snow off hedges and shrubs so stop them being weighed down and damaged.

 2. Keep the surface of ponds ice free by placing footballs on the surface or melting holes with the bottom of a pan containing hot water.

 3. Keep feeding the birds and make sure delicate plants have a thick coat of fleece around them.

 4. During any milder spells don’t be tempted to cut back any frost damaged plants, leave them be until the warmth of spring arrives. Leave dead or desiccated herbaceous plants as they are, should the cold weather return as it’s supposed to, they’ll provide snug havens for birds as well as providing seed and berries for food.

 5. Continue to remove leaves and debris from lawns but avoiding walking on them when they’re frozen or saturated and when spreading salt on garden paths be sure to avoid any adjoining grass, the salt will kill it outright!

 6. If and when you can, scrub decking and patio areas with a stiff brush to remove slime and prevent them from being slippery; use a propriety patio cleaner or a weak bleach solution.

 7. Make sure greenhouse heaters are set at the right level and working correctly to prevent your most precious plants from freezing to death and turning to mush. Some areas have had power cuts so it’s worth checking that they’re functioning correctly. Use bubble wrap on the inside of the glass for extra insulation and keep your plants on the dry side, many plants will cope with cold and dry but cold and wet spells death for many.

 8. On beds and borders if the weather does allow then continue to dig in organic material, but avoid doing this if the ground is wet and heavy, you’ll cause more harm than good as it will compact the soil forcing out the air and making it more prone to waterlogging.

 9. If you are snowed in then now is the time to peruse those seed and plant catalogues and consider what you’d love to grow this year, perhaps a brand new introduction, a challenging delicate plant, new varieties of potato or perhaps flowers to cut for the house.

 10. Keep an eye on your house plants this time of year, provide maximum light, keep them on the dry side, except for azaleas that love to sit in water, keep them away from cold draughts and hot radiators and make sure the more delicate ones aren’t trapped in a pool of cold air behind curtains during the night.

One of our favourite horticultural jobs at this time of year must be choosing our Christmas tree. Real trees don’t suit everyone but for the people who do want one, you generally have a choice of Spruces (such as the traditional Norway Spruce) or Firs (such as the Nordman Fir or Douglas Fir). They each have their own pros and cons; the spruces tend to be cheaper but the firs don’t drop their needles so readily. What ever you go for, just remember to treat the tree like a cut flower, cut the bottom couple of inches off and make sure it has plenty of water. Don’t put it next to a radiator and keep it outside in a bucket of water until you are ready to bring it in.

1.      Clear the remainder of the leaves, most would have come down already. Last to come down are normally weeping willow leaves followed by the alders.

2.      As with last month make sure your tender plants are protected, either fleeced or brought indoors.

3.      You shouldn’t need to do any hoeing but if you do get the urge be careful not to hoe off any emerging bulbs. It’s easily done, I did it twice last week !

4.      Continue planting deciduous trees and shrubs. It’s a good time for planting both fruit trees and fruit bushes. You can still just about get away with planting any bulbs if you didn’t get time last month.

5.      This time of year is traditionally the best time to prune your apples and pears. Cut off any dead or diseased branches and any crossing branches to keep an open shape. With apple trees I was always told that they should be nice and open so that a pigeon could fly right throw the tree without knocking into any branches. Remember don’t prune cherries, plums and peaches until the spring/ early summer.

6.      Don’t be tempted to feed your plants at this time of year. Most are not actively growing so they don’t need it. Any soft growth that may be promoted could get hammered by the cooler temperatures.

7.      Give your compost heap a good stir to ensure that it gets mixed thoroughly.

8.      Caring for Poinsettias. If you get a poinsettia for Christmas, make sure you keep it well lit, away from draughts and don’t let the temperatures fall below 13 degrees. Don’t over water and let the compost dry out between waterings. To get it to colour up again for next Christmas, cut the stems back to about 10cm in the early spring and then  re-pot and water in May. At the start of October cover the plant from the early evening so that it gets 14 hours of darkness. Do this for 8 weeks and then the bracts should turn red. Remember, the key is 14 hours of darkness for 8 weeks.

9.      Clear away any dead anuuals, runner beans, bedding, sweet peas etc.

10.  Dig over vacant areas; the winter frosts should help to break down the soil ready for working in the spring.

Well what a weird old month November is turning out to be! Although we have had plenty of rain now, and some places have had more than enough, this autumn has started off remarkably well. Temperatures have been above normal in our part of Hertfordshire, and when the sun does come out you can still work outside in t-shirts. More importantly, we haven’t had a frost yet! No doubt we will get a hammering in due course but at the moment it’s so much better than last autumn.

1. Keep on top of the leaves. It’s a laborious job but it is worth while. Keep raking them up, especially if they are on your grass or on your patio and paths; wet leaves on hard surfaces can be dangerous, but don’t worry too much on your herbaceous borders as they will eventually rot down and improve the soil (Unless they are trapped around plants as they can be a hiding place for slugs).Diseased leaves such as black spot infected rose leaves should be disposed of by burning to prevent carry over of infection. The rest stick on the compost heap.
2. Keep cutting back herbaceous perennials once they go over and turn yellow.
3. Keep an eye on the weather forecasts. If frost is predicted, bring in any tender plants or wrap them in several layers of fleece.
4. Take hardwood cuttings (shrubs and trees such as Forsythia, Buddleia and Photinia) and root cuttings (Oriental poppies, Chaenomoles, Acanthus, Crambe, Dicentra, Eryngium). See Propagation section for instructions on how to do it.
5. Not too late to plant bulbs. November is ideal for planting tulips.
6. Depending on where you are in the country, you may need to lift your dahlias and store them over winter. If you are in a mild area just leave them in and mulch the crown to protect it. If not, cut the stem right down to just above ground level, dig up the tuber and wash off the soil. Let it dry and then store in sand, newspaper or dry compost. Keep them cool and dry but frost free.
7. Normally, we would expect to put the lawn mower away at this time of year, but if it continues to stay mild you might get another grass cut before Christmas especially if it’s dry. Don’t forget grass can still grow even at 5 degrees. If you are finished with it, give it a good clean before you put it away.
8. If you are really bored and looking for something to do, you can always clean and oil your hand tools such as spades, hoes and forks – not my favourite job I must say.  
9. Take a few moments to do a bit of garden planning. Look back at your gardening successes and gardening failures and start to plan next year’s projects. There may be beds to dig over or new areas to plant.
10. In the veg plot, clear away any dead or dying plants such as tomatoes and runner beans, dig over any bare areas and mulch with manure.

1. Now is a good time to start thinking about giving your lawns some TLC with an autumn lawn treatment. Rake out any thatch of dead brown grass and improve drainage by spiking or aerating. On heavy soils brush sand into the holes to improve drainage and on light sandy soils brush in compost or top soil to improve the moisture retention. If the weather permits you can keep mowing for a few weeks to keep the lawns sharp. 
2. Try to keep on top of the leaves if you can, especially if they are on the lawn as they can turn the grass yellow if left to rot. Don’t get too worried about leaves on your flower beds as these will eventually rot down or you can dig them in giving extra nutrients. Diseased leaves should be burnt to stop any infection from carrying over to next year. 
3. We try to give roses a light autumn prune, just to put them to bed before Christmas. If you prune down by a third it will stop wind rock which can reduce the rigour of the plant. Rake up and burn old rose leaves, especially if infected with black spot. 
4. Tidy up Buddleias now that they have finished flowering. Cut back by a third, just above a pair of leaves. You can cut them back hard in March. 
5. Keep lifting and dividing perennials such as Michaelmas Daisies, Alchemila, Campanula and Phlox if required. 
6. As deciduous trees are now becoming dormant you can start planting new fruit trees and ornamentals. Peaches and nectarines always do better if planted in the early autumn when the soil is still reasonably warm, apples and pears aren’t so fussy. 
7. If frosts have destroyed the last of the summer bedding or you are just fed up with them, pull them up and get rid of them. Think about planting autumn / winter bedding such as Violas and pansies, Bellis, Cyclamen and wall flowers. Pansies and Violas always do better if planted early autumn and I always prefer Violas to pansies as they flower better, look neater and don’t need so much dead heading. 
8. Raise your pots up with pot feet to stop them sitting in water over the winter and give some of your more tender plants a bit of protection. If we get some harsh frosts remember that you need to properly fleece your plants; one layer of fleece is not enough you need several layers and cover the pot itself as well. 
9. Keep planting spring bulbs.  
10. In the veg garden, harvest your pumpkins and squashes. Once cut you will help storage if you leave them in the sun for a couple of days to let the skins  harden before storing somewhere cool, dark and dry. 

     If your tomatoes are still refusing to turn red, try pulling them up and hanging

    them up side down in the greenhouse or somewhere bright. It should help them

    to ripen.

 It’s enjoyable and it saves you money.

 1.Take Cuttings

(a) Softwood Cuttings                                               When: May-August

Examples : Lavender, Forsythia, Fuchsia, Pelargoniums etc. perennials, houseplants

 -Usually taken in spring or summer. (Can be used to propagate tender plants such as bedding plants).

-Take cuttings of about 10cm (4in) in length, cutting below a leaf joint. (Shorter side shoots are taken with a ‘heel’, where the side shoot is pulled down and away from the parent shoot e.g Rosemary and Buddleia).

-Remove the bottom leaves from the lower third of the stem and insert into compost.

-Then place in a propagator (widely and quite cheaply available in garden centres) to get them growing away. You can also try placing the pot into a clear plastic bag to act as a simple propagator.

 (b) Semi-Ripe Cuttings                                             When: July & August

Examples: Argyranthemum, Camellia, Senecio maritima.

 -These are taken in July and August when the plan’s growth is starting to slow down.

-Take cuttings from main stems or use strong, leafy non-flowering side shoots from the main stems. Cutting length should be about10-15cm (4-6in).

-Remove the lower leaves and dip the base in a hormone rooting powder.

-Then insert about 2.5cm (1in) deep into small pots with compost. Either cover with a clear polythene bag or place in a covered propagator to get them rooting.  

 (c) Hardwood Cuttings –                                          When: Early Autumn

Examples : Easiest way to make new plants from shrubs and trees

 -In early autumn, choose strong, straight shoots on this year’s growth.

-Cut just above a bud or pair of buds at the junction between the current season’s growth and the previous year’s growth.

-Remove any large leaves and side shoots from the stem and trim the cuttings to about 20cm (8in).

-Make an angled cut just above the top bud and a horizontal cut just below the bottom one.

 -Insert the cuttings into a pot filled with compost and water it in well. Keep out of direct sunlight and with any luck the cuttings should be well rooted and ready for transplanting by the next autumn.

(d) Root Cuttings                                                      When: September-March

(Examples: Chaenomoles, Acanthus, Crambe, Dicentra, Eryngium)

 -Take cuttings anytime between September and March.

-Use a sharp knife to cut off portions of root from the parent plant.

-Slice the roots into sections from 1cm to 7.5cm (0.5in to 3in) in length.

-Place root cuttings on a tray of moist compost and then cover with 1cm (0.5in) of compost.

-Once the shoots have emerged, lift the young plants from the compost and repot to grow them on.

(e) Leaf Cuttings

(Examples:  Part Leaf Cuttings; Begonias, Streptocarpus, Sanseveiria)

 Streptocarpus - cut the leaf in half along the midrib and then insert one half of the leaf, cut side down into damp compost and firm in.

Sansevieria - cut leaves horizontally into 5cm (2in) pieces and insert lower edge down into damp compost.

Begonia - cut across the main veins on the underside. Pin the leaf, cut side down onto the compost. Alternatively, cut the leaf into squares 2.5cm (1in) across each with a main vein. Water and then place in a propagator or a clear plastic bag in a light place out of direct sunlight . ‘Plantlets’ should form which can then be potted on.

2.Division                                                                   When:Early Spring or Autumn

Examples: Many perennials such as Delphinium, Heuchera, Stocks, Asters, Iris, Geraniums

 -In early spring or autumn, lift the plants, taking care not to damage the root ball.

-Divide each plant into several portions by gently pulling them away from the main plant  by using 2 garden forks back to back (Hemerocallis) or splitting with a spade (Hellebores and Asters)

-Dig over the area that you want to put them back into and check over the divided plant for weed seedlings such as ground elder before you replant it.

-Firm in and then water it in well.

3.Layering                                                                  When:Early Spring or Autumn

Examples: Cornus, Magnolia Acer, Camellia, Chaenomeles, Cotinus, Daphne, Forsythia, Hamamelis, Jasminum, Magnolia, Rhododendron (including azalea), Syringa and Viburnum.

 Layering is a way of encouraging part of the plant to grow new roots, rooting it on and then removing the new section from the parent. Its a clone of the old plant.

 -Choose flexible young shoots on the outside of the plant that can be bent over to ground level.

-In either autumn or spring make a 2.5-5cm (1-2in) cut through a leaf node approximately 30cm (12in) from the shoot tip. This will encourage roots to form. Apply hormone rooting powder to the cut.

-Dig a shallow hole, 10-15cm (4-6in) deep and ‘peg’ the section to the ground, using metal pins or wire. Alternatively, sink a small pot containing Seed Compost and peg into that.

-Back fill with soil and firm around it. Water it in.

-After a year or so the layered area should have developed a root system and then can be cut off from the parent plant and transplanted to where its needed.

 4.  Collecting Seeds and Growing them on             When: Once Seeds are Ripe

(Examples; Most Perennials, shrubs, trees)

 -Often the easiest way to make new plants is to collect their seed after they have flowered and set seed.

-Seeds are usually collected only once they are ripe. (Signs of ripeness include splitting and opening of the seedpods and a darkening  in colour of the seeds themselves).

-Choose a dry day for seed collection, so that the seeds do not become damp and either rot off or start to germinate.  

-Many hybridised plants will not come true to type from seed. Unlike with cuttings, where you get an exact clone of the parent plant, seedlings will be genetically different from their parents, and may have totally different flower colours or different levels of vigour.

-Cut off ripe looking seedpods, seed cases, fruits or cones from the parent plant.

-Remove any shrivelled or damaged looking seeds before storing.

-Many seeds are best stored dry, at fridge temperatures in paper bags so that they don’t sweat.   

 Sowing your collected seeds:

-Use specific seed compost for sowing in and water the compost before you sow into it. Sow thinly and not too deeply, roughly 1-2 times the size of the seed.

 -Cover the seed lightly with compost and then cover the seed tray with a piece of glass and a sheet of newpaper until the seeds have germinated.

-Label the seedlings and make a note of the sowing date.

-When the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves, carefully prick them out and transplant into a bigger pot.

-After potting on, it is important not to let the compost dry out. A hand held water sprayer can be useful for this.

Although all parts of the country will probably get some rain this Easter weekend, it is important to make sure your pots, tubs and hanging baskets are well watered to keep your plants looking good. We have noticed a few casualties this week with wilting pansies in dust dry compost and some struggling conifers so if you get time in the garden this weekend get your watering can out.

Happy Easter

General

-Use old tights or odd socks for tree and plant ties as they are nice and soft, flexible and won’t cut into the stem.

-When watering your plants, make sure that you give them a really good drink. Just giving them a short watering encourages the roots to develop closer to the surface of the soil, making the plant less drought tolerant and more susceptible to be rocked by the wind.

 -Water hanging baskets by putting ice cubes on the top. As they melt moisture is slowly released.

-Age new statues by smearing on natural yoghurt

-Banana skins are good for feeding roses. 

-Viagra dissolved in water can stiffen the stems of flowers in vases and stop them flopping. Not totally sure of this one as I have never needed to buy it but I have heard it a couple of times. Not sure how much you need, the more you use the stiffer they get I suppose!

-Stop cut tulips from flopping in a vase by putting a pin through the stem just under the flower.

-Fizzy, sugary drinks can be used as plant feed in vases and alcohol can sterilise the water just like a drop of bleach.

Vegetables

 -Golden rule for planting vegetable seeds, don’t sow too early, too thickly or too deeply.

-Runner beans can be grown as an ornamental climber  – originally they were grown as ornamentals in Victorian times before they were grown for food.

 -Don’t plant cauliflowers in sandy soil or they will fail.

-Brussels Sprouts will fail on loose, infertile soil, so make sure the soil is enriched with well-rotted manure the winter before sowing. Also, ridge up the plants with soil and firm them in. Brassicas also like alkaline soils so lime if necessary the previous winter.

-Plant food-bearing plants when the moon is waxing (increasing to a full moon) and ornamentals when the moon is waning (decreasing).

Pest Control

-Plant some Marigolds around the vegetable garden and they will keep pests away. Companion planting.

-To keep rabbits away from your crops, it was said to plant a row of onions ,chives or garlic. (anything from the allium family).

-Plant garlic and chives among roses to keep greenfly away.

-Methylated spirits can be used to control wooly aphids.

-To prevent slugs getting to plants in containers, smear the outside of the container with Vaseline or WD40 .

 -Ants nests can damage grass roots in lawns so apply ant gel or clove oil in a watering can. Ants don’t like water.

 Planting and Sowing

-When sowing seeds,  use a pencil dipped into water to pick up the seeds and place them onto the growing medium. That way you don’t lose any. Or use a match stick.

-Mix fine seed with sand for ease of sowing. You can also use non-scented talcum powder so you can see them as you are sowing them.

-When planting trees, dig a square hole rather than a round one as it allows the roots to spread out evenly.

  Lawns

-For a better looking lawn, mow it in two different directions. New turf should be mown against the way it is laid to get it to knit in well.